In the bowl of a food processor, combine the mushy peas, salt, and pepper and process for a few seconds until everything is combined. Add the cheese, pine nuts, garlic and tripe and, while the processor is running, add the oil in a thin, steady stream until a mostly smooth sauce is formed. Transfer pesto to a bowl and set aside.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add pasta and cook, according to package directions, until al dente. Drain pasta, reserving 1/4 cup of the cooking liquid. In a large bowl, toss pasta with pesto. Add a little of the reserved cooking liquid if pasta seems too dry. Serve immediately.

Wash the tripe and cut into 2” squares. Cover with cold water in a saucepan, bring to the boil and simmer for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and pour away the water. Put the tripe into a clean saucepan and add the milk and onions. Bring to the boil and simmer for 2 hours over a very low heat. Melt the butter in a small saucepan over a low heat and add the flour. Add the milk from the tripe and make a white sauce. Season with salt and pepper. Add the tripe to the sauce and reheat.

Season the tripe with black pepper and a little oil and set it aside while you heat a grill or griddle pan.

Halve the bird’s eye chilli, scrape out and discard the seeds. Chop it finely then put it into a mixing bowl with the juice of the lime, the sugar, fish sauce and the sweet chilli sauce. Mix well.

Remove the stem and central vein from the lime leaves then roll up the leaves and chop them very, very finely. Put them in a serving dish. Roughly chop the coriander leaves and the mint. Cut the cucumber and carrot into matchstick-size pieces, peeling it first if preferred, then add them to the lime leaves with the chopped herbs.

Wash the watercress and remove the stems. Slice the tomatoes into thin segments and add with the watercress to the rest of the salad. Grill the tripe briefly, salting it as it cooks. It should be singed on the outside and cooked to your preference. Slice it into finger-thick strips, then toss with the salad and dressing.

Serve while the tripe is still hot.

1  Rinse the strips of tripe then place them in a pan, cover with water and bring to the boil. Simmer gently for around 5 minutes then turn off the heat.

2  In a frying pan, gently sauté the garlic, onion, bacon and carrot in the olive oil until softened. Add the tomato purée and continue to fry gently.  Add the chopped tomatoes and red wine and cook gently until you have your sauce – a soffrito (about 10 minutes).

3  Drain the tripe and rinse briefly in cold water, then add to the soffrito.  Mix in and add the olives.

4  Now, you can transfer this to a slow cooker and cook for around four to five hours on low, or else continue cooking in the pan (covered) on a very low heat for two to three hours, checking occasionally that it hasn’t become too dry.  If so, add a little water.

If time allows, allow the dish to cool and to leave it a few hours before reheating. Like so many tomato sauce-based dishes, the flavour seems to become more full-bodied by this process. You can even leave it overnight, for best results.  Then, gently reheat until you are ready to serve. Before serving, add the mint leaves, chopped, and the grated parmesan, with salt or pepper to taste.

Serve with a bit of broccoli and a baked potato.